As we approach 2023 with a growing Earth-friendly awareness—and global and regional packaging mandates clearly in sight—consumers are demanding more responsible packaging and corporate initiatives from the brands they choose to support. And research increasingly shows that they are willing to pay more for goods that meet these criteria.

In accordance, many beauty industry suppliers are focusing their innovative packaging R&D on sustainable packaging solutions, some revamping entire lines to comply with strict environmental guidelines. In fact, it seems that the two principles of Innovation and Sustainability are now inextricably linked.

Shapes, colors, sizes, materials, deco—and customization—also play roles in innovative package design as cosmetic brands vie for attention in a crowded marketplace. In addition, “Gendernormative” boundaries and inclusivity on all fronts have become key consumer expectations, while waterless formulas, “ready-to-recycle” and refillable have become more accepted as practical solutions.

Features such as these have altered the way packaging designers approach a project, often with end consumers in mind.

Nick Vaus, partner and creative director at London-based design agency Free The Birds, tells Beauty Packaging, “There are two design principles within beauty and cosmetics—sustainability & impact, and inclusivity & accessibility—that’ll remain crucial considerations for any product or brand design we create.” 

In essence, says Vaus, impending legislation has taken “nice-to-have” sustainable packaging to a “must-have” necessity.

He explains: “With words like ‘circular economy’ and ‘reusability’ common terminology in our briefings, it is enforced legislation that has given the industry the much-needed push to develop innovative packaging in a climate-conscious environment.” 

Because of the plastic packaging tax introduced in some countries, Vaus says they’re already seeing initiatives to educate businesses and the public about ways to create a circular economy by using materials existing in the chain—from production to end customer. For example, he says, “The likes of Mura Technology created a system to clean and reuse consumer waste plastic, while Vivomer is entering the packaging arena with compostable and vegan packaging. Then there are brands that have the desire to create a completely reusable product offering, which is proving popular not only in the beauty industry (Chanel’s beauty range, for example), as fashion store Selfridges wants half of its transactions to be resales, rentals and refills by 2030.”

Additionally, Vaus says, “It is exciting to see how inclusivity has progressed in these few years with celebrity brands like Harry Styles’ Pleasing, R.E.M. Beauty, and Fenty Beauty. Both Pleasing and R.E.M. Beauty are pushing the ‘gendernormative’ boundaries, experimenting with shapes and colors to market to a gender-neutral audience.” 

When it comes to improving the accessibility of the cosmetics market, Vaus points to Fenty Beauty, which created a hinged grip twist lid for easier opening of its pots, and Consumer Convenience Technologies, which is working on a lid that eliminates the tough twist caused by the vacuum seal, with a push-down button to release the seal. 

Packaging Supplier Innovation

As the major responsibility for innovative cosmetic packaging rests on the shoulders of beauty industry suppliers, we reached out to a selection of leading players to get a pulse on current trends, and insight into how they interpret/define, and deliver packaging innovation in today’s beauty world.

Overall, suppliers and brands agree that the demand for sustainable packaging has shifted the entire beauty industry.

At HCT by kdc/one, Denis Maurin, global president of sales and innovation, tells Beauty Packaging, “When looking closely at customer requests, it is important to first look at how requests for sustainability stories have changed our industry. This has become a key focus for most brands and specifically we see them leaning toward mono-materials and refillable options. Keeping their focus on sustainability in mind, we are then able to help bridge the gap between innovation and reducing their carbon footprint.”

Maurin adds: “Innovation isn’t just about solving problems, but also about discovering and exploring new and different approaches.”

For example, HCT’s Flex Dropper Technology line was inspired by the need to create a more eco-friendly option to a typical dropper that traditionally utilizes many parts and is therefore difficult to recycle. Flex is used like a pen and delivers precise dosing. Maurin says the Flex Dropper offers “a new way to dispense formulas like serums and foundation in recyclable and refillable options.”

At WWP Beauty, Musa Pharand-Dias, CMO and head of global innovation, says, “The beauty world is dynamic and requires a more complex innovation strategy to keep any brand relevant vis a vis a more educated and demanding consumer base.” At WWP Beauty, they break down innovation into three classes: Innovative Stock, Renovation, and Disruptive Innovation, which allow continuous value-added [features], and propels sales revenue. “All our future-focused innovation initiatives are based on megatrends, white space, consumer and competitor assessment and in alignment with our company commitment to create ‘Beauty with Purpose’ for a more sustainable and circular beauty system,” says Pharand-Dias.

One of WWP Beauty’s latest innovations is its Color Revolution Lipstick, which has a universal rounded design and a luxurious look and feel. Dias says the “ultimate mono-material, and ready-to-recycle refillable lipstick packaging features an intuitive and easy-to-refill design.” It provides a 24% CO2e reduction on 1st refill and a 70% CO2e reduction on 4th refill compared to a standard weighted lipstick.

New Sustainable Materials

Eastman has been focusing on creating new sustainable materials. Tara Cary, segment market manager, Cosmetics and Personal Care Packaging, says over the past few years, sustainability has become an essential component of packaging design in the beauty industry. She says the trick is to achieve this without creating undesirable compromises in aesthetics or performance.

“Increasingly,” says Cary, “we are asked to provide solutions that enable a circular economy for beauty packaging.” She says, if a brand needs a solution for the beginning of life of a package or the end of life, or both, Eastman finds ways to balance the properties to accomplish this. “Taking a holistic look at the way a product is intended to be used from cradle to grave helps us to create solutions that delight consumers and satisfy their needs for responsible packaging,” says Cary.

NF Beauty Group’s design manager Andrea Greff, reiterates that innovation comes in many forms within the beauty world. Greff says they define innovation to mean unique and useful packaging products as well as formulas that haven’t been seen on the market before. “Our innovation stems from the goal to fulfill a need or provide a new tactile experience to our customers and clients,” says Greff.

NF Beauty Group developed the Vega O2 Mister with fine mist product formulations in mind. This package features an oxygenated capsule that can be popped (via twisting the base) to infuse the formula with oxygen, causing pressure that creates a fine mist to be sprayed when the nozzle is actuated. “The fine mist is great for refreshing or setting sprays and also for even application of primer sprays,” Greff explains.

APC Packaging’s Robert Bulla, director of engineering & innovation, says they do not call something an innovation unless it meets certain criteria. “To be called an innovation, an idea must be replicable at an economical cost and must satisfy a specific need.”

The supplier’s patented, Mono-Material System Dropper & Bottle has been created with end-consumers in mind, “to ensure a beautiful experience that has a positive impact on the environment,” says Bulla. He explains that being mono-material further allows for easy disposal, as this dropper or the dropper and the bottle can be recycled as one unit.

APC Packaging designed the pipette utilizing “the latest technology for clarity, which overcomes the use of glass in typical multi-material and non-recyclable droppers on the market today,” says Bulla. The pipette was also designed to be chemical resistant. The pipette and bottle were both designed using Polypropylene (PP) enhanced with NX UltraClear “to challenge the traditional clarity of glass.” 

Makeup brushes have taken on the innovative and sustainable message at Raphael Makeup Brushes/Max Sauer SAS. Marianna Cilauro, sales manager, U.S. region, says they look at trends in the industry, at what consumers are needing and wanting to see; and talking to makeup artists and “just regular” consumers who use beauty in a natural and simple way. “Innovation is simple and sustainable in today’s world,” says Cilauro.

“Consumers want products that are easy and good for the Earth.”

One of Raphael’s latest eco brushes showcases a handle made of 50% shell and 50% bioplastics. The plastic is recovered from a plant called ricin, which grows in arid environments and requires little water and nutrients.

The shell comes from oyster waste on the Atlantic coast. Normally this waste would be thrown away, says Cilauro, “however, we are using it for this innovative handle,” which was developed in partnership with the company Authentic Material. The brush head is made of 65% recycled fiber (made of PET bottle waste) and 35% raw fiber. The handle can be produced in any color, different shapes, and different sizes. The recycled fiber can be adapted to any brush head shape.

Sustainable innovation in packaging is also a top priority at ICS according to Sarah Chen, marketing and communication manager. “We are always looking to innovate in a sustainable way and ensure the product incorporates sustainable elements.”

Chen says mono-material, easy-to-recycle products are the most in demand. “And whenever it is not possible to design a product to be mono-material,” she says, “refillable and recyclable components are key.” Consumers are also increasingly looking for products with innovative applicators and hands-free dispensing systems, says Chen.

Thinking Outside the Typical Plastic Bottle

Element Packaging has taken on plastic packaging, offering brands an alternative—and looking at Innovative Packaging from a new perspective.

Nicholas Gardner, co-founder at Element Packaging, says, “In beauty packaging, innovation can be interpreted in several areas—materials, design, and processes are just a few. Each has the potential to have an impact on a brand’s entire value chain. The biggest long-term impact can be achieved in the category of sustainability. The choice of materials, benefiting a cleaner environment can work to contribute to the current circular economy.”

Element’s partnership with Oco, a carbon upcycling consumer brand, offers a patent-pending material made from captured carbon emissions. Through the implementation of this novel material, Gardner says Element has created the first carbon captured packaging for the beauty, skincare, wellness, and body care industries. He says Oco and Element are addressing environmental challenges one step at a time, including removal of CO2; reduction of greenhouse gases; reducing the carbon footprint; improving the durability and strength of the PCR; and increasing the multiple for recycling potential.

Ultimately says Gardner, “the end-of-life cycle becomes a carbon sink, trapping carbon permanently.”

According to Gardner, the creation of Element and Oco’s patent-pending carbon-capture PCR packaging is easily recyclable, but more importantly, when (not if) it ends up in a landfill, it is captured, and won’t release CO2.”

He adds: “This process has raised the bar within our industry.”

With many of the industry’s current endeavors to reduce plastic underway, Gardner says Element and Oco “have taken our mission a step further, creating captured carbon packaging, ready for market, which works with the recycling system’s current handicaps, rather than against it.”

Bakic Packaging has also pushed the boundaries “of what is technically feasible, in order to develop a stable, yet more sustainable package, reducing as much material as possible.”

CEO Dominic Bakic describes their 250ml Smoothie bottle as “one of the first truly lightweight bottles on the market without compromising on functionality.” He explains that the innovation comes through a specific combination of bionic design and extrusion-technique, saying, “We achieved material savings of approximately 50% compared to conventional bottles of the same size.

“The Smoothie bottle is a very sustainable solution, since we not only save a tremendous amount of plastic, but in addition, packaging materials are 100% recyclable,” says Bakic. The screw cap allows the cap and bottle to be easily separated and disposed of, says Bakic. The packaging also offers “a real experience” because the bottle is thinner and much more flexible. As the product is consumed, the packaging gets smaller and smaller until at the end of the product’s lifecycle, only “a very small amount of plastic is being disposed.”

Bakic further explains, “Despite the reduced material which feels almost like paper, the bottle has the same characteristics and almost the exact same stability as a standard 250ml bottle, the main difference: the Smoothie bottle is a lot lighter with a weight of only 10g.”

Connecting with Consumers

Today’s beauty consumers are drawn to packaging that catches the eye and promises a luxurious experience when opened, says Eastman’s Cary, “but they also want to feel good about what they are doing for the planet, so they look for packaging that delivers sustainability and responsibility in its approach.” To this end, she says Eastman’s Cristal Renew portfolio offers brands many material options “that allow designers the freedom to use recycled content without compromise to the look, feel and performance they require.”

At Luxe Pack Monaco this year, Rebhan Packaging and Pinard Beauty Pack both announced the availability of bottles made with Eastman’s Cristal One E, designed for extrusion blow molding. Cristal One E meets the requirements per EPBP and APR for recyclability in the PET stream and can be made with up to 100% certified recycled content.

Cary explains, “Brands have traditionally turned to extrusion blow molding to differentiate their products by making bottles with sharp corners, complex shapes, embossing, through-holes or other unique features. Until now, that was only possible with non RIC1 options. Cristal One E changes that paradigm making thick-walled, thick-based, complex bottles possible in a recyclable format.”

Brands and consumers are always looking for new materials, formats, and ways of delivery, says Maurin of HCT by kdc/one. “We are always looking for more sustainable solutions in addition to unique and fun ways to interact with the product. Simplicity and multifunctionality are key features that the modern-day consumer is looking for, all while taking into consideration the pack’s environmental impact,” he explains.

WWP Beauty’s Pharand-Dias has observed that in-demand packaging features have shifted from aesthetics and functionality only, to a more holistic packaging solution that also considers eco-smart designs and eco-friendly materials “to ensure a more positive impact on the environment and help brands better resonate with a more eco-conscious consumer base.” 

No matter how creative a package is, most important is its functionality, says Bulla of APC Packaging. “If you set aside any ‘cool factor, which typically will draw an interest, you will find consumers like innovation that hits their pain points, “These pain points can be overcome by having an innovation that just works and is intuitive.” As an example, he says, “You may have a really great idea and you utilize hidden threads to accomplish the innovation, but the customer base really wants a button. A button is easy to use and easy to understand. Hidden threads that accomplish the same result are just that—hidden threads.”

Functionality as well as tactility and aesthetics top the list of innovative packaging features at NF Beauty. Greff says tactility (how it feels in the hands) can be a great way to differentiate a plain stock item from something innovative; for example, when a cap clicks in place in a satisfying manner it can be deemed innovative. Aesthetics (how it looks and follows a brand’s visuals) can also be innovative—through the application of unique color, material or finish methods. And functionality, says Greff, also brings true innovation to the table, drawing consumers and clients to a unique package. “If there is a unique function associated with how a formula is dispensed, or how a bottle is squeezed or opened and closed (for example) a consumer is likely to pick it up via media (like Tik Tok, Instagram or other social outlets) or literally pick it up off of a shelf,” she says.

Looking to Future Packaging

Sustainable packaging has introduced radical and innovative changes in the cosmetic industry in a relatively short period of time. With legislature only increasing, what can we expect next? Here, some of the industry’s key suppliers rely on their experience as they gaze into their crystal balls.

“There’s definitely more work to be done for inclusive accessibility, and sustainable packaging solutions,” says Free the Birds’ Vaus, “but year on year we’re seeing incremental but significant improvements in the beauty sector that display that we’re heading in the right direction. Conglomerates will eventually fully invest resources in these developments, and tides will shift thanks to the beautiful thinkers disrupting the market.”

HCT’s Maurin predicts: “The packaging of the future will become more minimalistic for the everyday consumer. People look for those few items that can give them a variety of different looks, and don’t weigh down their makeup bag. We think the world of cosmetics and skincare will focus more on glass, paper, and alternative metals in addition to refillable options.”

Zero waste is behind WWP Beauty’s Pharand-Dias’s glimpse into the future. She says, “The future of cosmetic packaging relies on minimizing its environmental impact, focusing on waste and CO2e reduction. The trend will be toward refillable, reusable, recyclable and compostable packaging and using new and restorative materials, such as algae, mycelium, and sugarcane, that would create a positive and regenerative impact on the planet.

Another trend is the “decarbonizing of packaging’s power sources” throughout its entire lifecycle, from the raw material and packaging production processes to the finished good disposal. The future is a zero-waste, true circular packaging economy with zero dependence on fossil-based plastics and single-use packaging.”

As technology evolves, Pharand-Dias anticipates another future development will be toward “phygital,” innovative packaging technology that utilizes QR codes, NFC chips, RFID tags, and augmented reality to bring new functionality to packaging. Phygital packaging will provide brands with consumer insight and brand loyalty, and consumers with inclusivity benefits and convenience.

“Packaging innovation will also contemplate inclusive designs that increase convenience and improve the user experience for consumers with special needs and for all,” says Pharand-Dias.

At Raphael Brushes, Cilauro believes, “It is all about the consumer and how they want to use packaging going forward. They want easy, sustainable and refillable and reusable packaging.”

Chen of ICS foresees “continuous demand for innovative packaging that is mono-material, recyclable, refillable, or made with environmentally friendly materials. We’ve also seen a growing demand for waterless and hybrid beauty formulations; as a result, compatible packaging solutions such as powder dispensing bottles and smaller packaging options for more concentrated formulations will be key.”

And at APC Packaging, Bulla sums it up, saying, “The package of the future has a focus on ensuring that we have a future and preserve the environment.” 

The following three brands stood out when it came to innovative packaging:

ieró Beauty: Innovative & Sustainable, Holistic & Glowing   

Former MAC executive, cosmetic innovator, makeup artist and “visionary” Nick Gavrelis recently launched a new beauty and lifestyle brand called ieró. (E-air-OH) means “Sacred” in Ancient Greek, and the brand says the name “is an homage to the extraordinary, authentic radiance we all possess.” ieró Beauty’s premiere Moonkissed Collection is grounded in 5 holistic core beliefs and accompanied by spiritual rituals.

Gavrelis tells Beauty Packaging, “From the start of conceptualization through the development of iero Beauty, we knew we wanted to keep our commitment to sustainability front and center, while creating products with the highest naturality levels we can, that are clean, plant-based, crystal derived mineral skincare and color products with next-level transparency.”

By incorporating a gradient heat transfer label from opaque blue at the top of the packaging fading to transparent at the base, Gavrelis says, “We are able to wrap the metallic violet flower of life pattern over the whole surface and reveal the chromotherapy cues and little botanical, or crystal treasures, that visually inspire calm, peaceful serenity and intuitive perception.” 

Packaging That Glows

Gavrelis explains, “Everything needed to celebrate the romance of the light and calming energy of the moon is further animated through the effect of adularescence, the glow on the surface of rainbow moonstone that we were able to recreate on the logo’d overcaps of our Moonkissed Serene Essence Replenishing Mist and Moonkissed Luminous PH Lip Comforter packages.

Through digital printing under clear plaques with an iridescent coating on top, he says they were able to bring the magical and soothing look of moonstone to life. “We worked for almost a half a year to achieve the Moonstone effect. A debt of gratitude indeed, as you can’t imagine how much patience our manufacturer had with us, as we strived to have a consistent result across package profiles,” says Gavrelis.

From Deco to Donations, Hourglass Holiday Sets Shine

Luxury beauty brand Hourglass is known for its innovation and commitment to luxury cosmetics and packaging. The brand’s Holiday 2022 Unlocked Collection introduces three Ambient Lighting Edit Palettes ($85 each) with blush, bronzer, and highlighter, to create “your perfect flush and lit-from-within glow.” Designed by London-based artist Katie Scott, the limited-edition palettes support Hourglass’s mission to unlock the cages of wild animals in captivity—and feature the butterfly, tiger, and elephant to celebrate the animal kingdom. In sync, Hourglass will donate 5% of annual profits from this collection to the Nonhuman Rights Project, a U.S. organization working to secure fundamental rights for animals.

Formulas are vegan and cruelty-free, and to reduce their use of virgin plastic, the packaging is “consciously crafted” from 100% tin. Palettes can be customized—just choose shades and animal. The gorgeous designs nearly guarantee they’ll be re-purposed once empty. 

Puig’s Design Fantasies Come to Life

Puig has reimagined the iconic bottle for Jean Paul Gaultier Limited edition Le Male Eau de Toilette in a keepsake bottle with a red Gaultier puffer jacket, containing the original Le Male scent—”a reassuring fragrance with an extremely modern trail.” The power and freshness of mint and lavender, which evoke the familiar, comforting scent of shaving soap, is transformed by the sensuality of vanilla ($102).

From Puig’s luxe brand Christian Louboutin Beauty, surfaces Rouge Louboutin Matte Fluids. These lip colors are each enclosed in a crystal-clear collectible bottle, carved with an intricate mermaid tail pattern “to encapsulate the opulent matte color like an elixir” ($85).